Carbon steel vs nonstick pans: which to buy

Choose nonstick if you want eggs and fish to slide out from day one, with nothing to keep up but gentle washing. Choose carbon steel if you sear and stir-fry over high heat and want a pan that gets better, not worse, with use.

Carbon steel
Nonstick
How the two differ in general; the pans we list are counted below.
DifferenceCarbon steelNonstick
Cooking surfaceSeasoning: baked-on oil that builds with useA coating applied at the factory
Food releaseGets slicker the more you cook in itSlick from the first use
HeatHigh heat for searing; Made In's goes to 1200°FModerate heat; Made In's goes in the oven to 500°F
WashingBy hand, then dried on the stoveBy hand with a soft sponge
UtensilsMetal is fine, Made In saysWood, nylon or silicone
How long it lastsDecades; rust and scratches can be fixedA few years before the coating wears out
Best forSearing, stir-fries, high-heat cookingEggs, fish, pancakes
On this page
Carbon steel
  1. Carbon steel
  2. Baked-on oil seasoning
Nonstick
  1. Aluminum body
  2. Nonstick coating
What the makers say, by material
Maker statementCarbon steelNonstick
Products we list2628
Works on induction (maker says)26 of 2615 of 28
Dishwasher allowed by the maker0 of 2621 of 28
Metal utensils allowed5 of 269 of 28
Needs seasoning26 of 260 of 28
Pan oven limit500–1200°F (13 of 26 state one)400–500°F (26 of 28 state one)
Lid oven limitNot stated350°F (11 of 28 state one)

How each one stops food sticking

A nonstick pan comes with its coating already on: a slick layer over an aluminum or stainless body that releases food from the first egg. Carbon steel starts as bare metal, about 99% iron and 1% carbon, and gets its release from seasoning, thin layers of oil baked onto the surface. Made In says it grows slicker the more you cook fatty food in it, like bacon or steak.

Heat and the oven

Carbon steel takes the high heat that searing and charring need. Made In rates its carbon steel to 1200°F, so it also goes on the grill or over a fire. Nonstick is for moderate heat: Made In's own nonstick goes in the oven to 500°F, other makers ask for medium-low on the stove, and a nonstick pan should always have oil or food in it while it heats.

Care, and how long each one lasts

Wash nonstick by hand with a soft sponge and cook with wood, nylon or silicone tools; even a good one lasts a few years before the coating wears out. Carbon steel is wiped out, or scrubbed with oil and salt, and dried on the stove straight after washing, because wet carbon steel rusts. Tomatoes, wine and vinegar strip its seasoning. In return it hardly ever wears out: rust and scratches come off, and the pan can be seasoned again.

Which one to choose

Choose nonstick for eggs, fish and pancakes with nothing to learn. Choose carbon steel for searing, stir-fries and a pan that lasts for decades. Made In suggests keeping one of each, since they're good at different jobs.

How these comparisons are made

Questions about this choice

Is carbon steel as slick as a nonstick pan?

Not when it's new. A well-seasoned carbon steel pan releases eggs and fish, but it takes some cooking to get there, and acidic food can set it back. A coated pan is slick from its first use.

Can carbon steel go in the dishwasher?

No. The dishwasher strips the seasoning and leaves the pan wet, so it rusts. Wash it by hand and dry it on the stove straight away.

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Updated · The Well Stocked Kitchen